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Would You Like to Review Oriental Dress and Design in the West?

August 7, 2018 scatterall Leave a comment

For review copies, visit the Indiana University Press page for media requests !

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Ottoman Dress in the West Instagram

Traditional Turkish needle lace, or igne oya. Jirousek suggests that these traditional edgings may have influenced the appearance of elaborate edgings in 14th and 15th century European dress. [Photograph of a selection from the author's collection of oya]

In the late 14th to early 15th century, there is a sudden proliferation of elaborate edgings on European garments. Some are pinked or dagged, some appear to be separately constructed, then attached. Throughout this period, elaborate edgings are often used to signify Muslim dress in art. [Christ Carrying the Cross, Schongauer, 1435-80]

The Franco-Flemish woman wears a headdress composed of rope-like coils of cloth constructed around a base hat. It has a striking resemblance to traditional Muslim turbans, including the one in this portrait of Sultan Mehmed II. [Profile portrait of a lady, c. 1410, National Gallery of Art, and Portrait of Mehmed the Conqueror, Topkapi Palace Museum Directorate]

Headgear in some late 14th and 15th century Italian and German images resembled Mamluk court turbans. The fashion for these forms faded in the late 15th century as Mamluk power declined. [ The Holy Kinship, Geertgen Sint Jans, 1475-80, Rijksmuseum]

This image is a French artist's depiction of hearsay stereotypes to signal whether individuals are Muslim or not. The two Muslims wear tall pointed hats with a roll of fabric around the base, a fair visual translation of verbal descriptions of Turkish turbans, but no real match to any authentic examples. The sultan is also shown wearing a hanging sleeve in a style that is neither Turkish or quite French. To clarify his distinctions, the artist does not show the Frenchmen in tall hats or hanging sleeves, though both were European fashion options at the time. [Detail of a miniature of Sultan Bajazet [Bayezid] receiving a ransom for the Compte de Nevers. C. 1470-72, Harley 4380, f.118. Copyright The British Library]

This banquet scene shows a variety of elaborate and tall headgear, including pointed hennins, the elaborate bicorne, and the man's tall sugarloaf hat. Sermons of the time preached against horned headdresses, including Landry: "The woman with her hornes mocketh God..." [Wedding feast, c. 1470-80]

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