Vita & Publications

CHARLOTTE JIROUSEK

Associate Professor and Curator

Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design

Cornell University

AREAS OF RESPONSIBILITY

August 1992 to present: 12 month, tenure track, 45% teaching, 30% research, and 25% curator of the Cornell Costume and Textile Collection.

EDUCATION

Ph.D., Design, Housing and Apparel, University of Minnesota, 1988

M.A., Applied Design, University of Minnesota, June 1982

B.A., Sociology, Hamline University, June 1960

RESEARCH

Chapters and Articles in Books

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Turkish Dress.” Encyclopedia of World Dress, Berg Publications, 2010

Jirousek, Charlotte. “The Kaftan.” Encyclopedia of World Dress, Berg Publications, 2010.

         Jirousek, Charlotte. “Carry it close to your heart: Exchanges of textiles associated with courtship and marriage.” In The Fabric of Life: Cultural Transformations in Turkish Society. Global Publications, State University of New York, Binghamton, 2005.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Finding the Cloth for the Clothes: Traditional Weaving Technologies in Anatolian Turkey.” In The Fabric of Life: Cultural Transformations in Turkish Society. Global Publications, State University of New York, Binghamton, 2005.

Erdogan, Zeynep and Jirousek, Charlotte. “Ankara (Angora) goat hair: The Turkish Mohair Tradition.” C. Jirousek, translation. In The Fabric of Life: Cultural Transformations in Turkish Society. Global Publications, State University of New York, Binghamton, 2005.

Kayabasi, Nuran and Jirousek, Charlotte. “Turkish Natural Dyeing Traditions.” C. Jirousek, translation. In The Fabric of Life: Cultural Transformations in Turkish Society. Global Publications, State University of New York, Binghamton, 2005.

Tansug, Sabiha. (C. Jirousek, Translation)”The Turkish Culture of flowers.” In The Culture of Turkish Textiles and Dress. Albany: SUNY Press, 2005.

Tagi, Sema Özkan. (C. Jirousek, Translation) “Traditional Dress in the Black Sea Region of Turkey. In The Fabric of Life: Cultural Transformations in Turkish Society. Global Publications, State University of New York, Binghamton, 2005.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Ottoman Influences in Western Fashion.” In Costume and Identity    in the Ottoman Empire Istanbul: Bogazici University, Eren Publications, 2005]

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Clothing.” In Encyclopedia of Islam and the Muslim World. Vol. 1.    Edited by Richard C. Martin. New York: Macmillan Reference USA, 2004.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Islamic Textiles.” In Encyclopedia of Clothing and Fashion,   Valerie                Steele, ed. New York: Scribners, 2004]

Jirousek, Charlotte. “The Transition to Mass Fashion System Dress in the Later Ottoman   Empire.” In Consumption Studies and the History of the Ottoman Empire, 1550-1922.   Donald Quataert, ed. Albany: State University of New York Press, 2000.

            Articles in refereed journals

Young, C., Jirousek, C., and Ashdown, S.P. 2004. Undesigned: A study in sustainable design of apparel using post-consumer recycled clothing. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, Volume 22, #1/2, pp 61-68.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “The End of the Silk Road: the Decline of Sericulture in Twentieth    Century Turkey.” Textile History 29, No. 2 (1998),        201-225.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “From ‘Traditional’ to ‘Mass Fashion System’ Dress Among Men in a Rural Turkish Village.” Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 15, no. 4 (1997); 203-215.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Dress and Social Policy: Change in Women’s Dress in a Southwestern Turkish Village.” Dress 23 (1997); 3-18.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Superstars, Superheroes and the Male Body Image: Some Visual Implications of Football Uniforms.” Journal of American Culture19, no. 2 (1996); 1-11.

Jirousek, Charlotte.” An Interactive Electronic Design Textbook on the World Wide Web.” Computer Applications to Textiles and Apparel, ITAA Monograph #8 (1996); 63-70.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “More Than Oriental Splendor: A comparison of Gothic and Ottoman Headgear.” Dress 22 (1995); 22-33.

Articles in Proceedings

Jirousek, Charlotte. Rediscovering Camlet: Traditional mohair cloth weaving in Southeastern Turkey. Proceedings of the 2008 Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium, 2009

Berman, Kimberly and Jirousek, Charlotte: Sustainability of Hand-woven Carpets in Turkey: the Context of the weaver. Proceedings of the Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium,Toronto, Ontario, 2007.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “The Gaziantep Cloth Trade: a Study of a Putting-out System of Cloth Production in Southeastern Turkey.” Proceedings, Seventh Biennial Symposium of the Textile Society of America, September 2000.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Market Effects Upon the Design and Construction of Carpets in the Milas Region of Southwestern Turkey, 1964-1994.” Contact, Crossover, Continuity: Proceedings, Textile Society of America, 1994.

Jirousek, Charlotte and Lee W. Rahe. Alabama’s Woven Counterpanes: The Other Coverlet. Ars Textrina, 1992, Volume xvii, pp. 167-192.

Jirousek, Charlotte. Indigenous Textile Craft Materials in Jamaica: Survivals of Early Dye and Straw Work Industries. Ars Textrina 1992, Volume xvii, pp. 87-108.

In Press: Refereed Article in Book

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Turkish Traditional Dress.” (forthcoming 2011 in Encyclopedia of National Dress, ABC-CLIO Publishing).

In Preparation: Book Authored

Jirousek, Charlotte. More Than Oriental Splendor: Exchanges in Fashion, Design and Culture in the Mediterranean World During the Ottoman Era.

Exhibition Catalog

           Common Threads: Dress, Identity and Art in the Twentieth Century, (Exhibition Catalogue) 2001, Johnson Museum, Cornell University.

           Jirousek, Charlotte. “Turkish Traditional Dress.” (World Dress, MacMillan Press)

 ORAL PRESENTATIONS

Refereed Presentations at Conferences and Symposia

Davis, Elizabeth and Charlotte Jirousek. “Visualizing la mode: fashioning the world in seventeenth century French prints.” Costume Society of America National Symposium, Kansas City, MO, May 2010.

             Jirousek, Charlotte. Mode a la turque in women’s dress during the late Baroque.     Costume Society of America Symposium, Phoenix AZ, May 2009.

           Roman, Mario and Jirousek, Charlotte. Attired at Home, Disguised in the World: Dress      Choices of South Asian Women in America. Costume Society of America Symposium,          Phoenix AZ, May 2009. Adele Filene Graduate Student Research Award.

Jirousek, Charlotte. Rediscovering Camlet: Traditional mohair cloth weaving in      Southeastern Turkey. Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium, Honolulu Hawaii,             September 2008.

Jirousek, Charlotte; The market and the maker: Transformation of the Milas Carpet            Tradition 1964-2007. American Anthropologial Association Meeting, Washington DC,      Nov.28-Dec. 3 2007.

Greene, Denise, Jirousek, Charlotte and Lewis, Van Dyk. Fashioned Youth Sub-Cultures in a Small Town: Exploring the nature of street fashion through documentation and collecting. Costume Society of America, Region II Symposium, September 2006.

Berman, Kimberly and C. Jirousek. Why women weave: Changes in Carpet Production in Turkey (Poster Presentation). International Conference on Oriental Carpets, Istanbul Turkey, April 25-29 2007.

            Jirousek, Charlotte, Discussant; Organized Panel Sustainability of Hand-woven       Carpets in Turkey: Issues affecting the preservation of an Endangered Textile Art;        Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium, Toronto, Ontario, October 11-14,      2006.

Berman, Kimberly and Jirousek, Charlotte: Sustainability of Hand-woven Carpets in         Turkey: the Context of the weaver. Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium,      Toronto, Ontario, October 11-14, 2006

Green, Denise, Jirousek, Charlotte and Lewis, Van Dyk. Fashioned Youth Sub-Cultures    in a Small Town: Exploring the nature of street fashion through documentation and    collecting. Region II Conference, Costume Society of America, Arlington VA. August 4-           5, 2006.

Ning Fangjun, Bao Mingxin and Charlotte Jirousek. “The Credibility Of Costume            Figures in Some Of The Murals In The Dunhuang Caves.” Costume Society of America        Annual Symposium, June 2003.

Jirousek, Charlotte and Warner, Patricia. “Imaginary Dress? Invented Drapery? Timeless Costume? Studio Props? Try Turkish.” Costume Society of America Annual Symposium, June 2003.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Ottoman Influence in Western Dress.” Ottoman Material Culture: Costume and Identity.” Fifth Annual Conference on Ottoman History, Bogazici University, Istanbul, October 20-21, 2000.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “The Gaziantep Cloth Trade: a Study of a Putting-out System of Cloth Production in Southeastern Turkey.” Textile Society of America Biennial Symposium, September 21-23, 2000.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “The Transition from Traditional to Mass Fashion System Dress in       the Later Ottoman Empire.” Seventh Biennial Conference on the Ottoman Empire and the        World-Economy: Consumption in the Ottoman Empire, 1500-1923 . October 11-12,           1996.

            Jirousek, Charlotte. “Market Effects on the Design and Construction of Carpets in the      Milas Region of Southwestern Turkey, 1964-1994.” Textile Society of America Fourth          Biennial Symposium: Contact, Crossover, Continuity, September 22-24, 1994.

Greene, Susan and Jirousek, Charlotte. “Determining Dates of Printed Dresses, 1800-        1860.” International Textile and Apparel Proceedings; October 21, 1994Greene, Susan;     and Jirousek, Charlotte. “Prints charming; textiles and dress fabrics, 1800-1865.”      Costume Society of America Symposium; June 1994.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Textiles of Islam and the West in the Age of Exploration.” Ars           Textrina 11th Annual Symposium on Textiles, Madison Wisconsin, June 1993.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “More than Oriental Splendor: Western Dress and the Levant.”  Proceedings of the Costume Society of America Annual Conference, San Antonio, Texas,         May 1992.

Invited Presentations

Jirousek, Charlotte. More than Oriental Splendor: Islamic influences in Western Fashion.
Invited lecture, Sponsored by Alumni Affairs and Development, College of Human Ecology, Cornell University; Museum of International Folk Art, Santa Fe, New Mexico;  April 15; and Salt Lake City, Utah; April 16, 2005.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Innocents abroad: Orientalism and Victorian Fashion”. Symposium in conjuction with the exhibition Modesty Died when Clothes were born: Clothing of the Clemens and Langdon families. Mark Twain House Museum, Hartford, CT, September 24, 2004.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Yorgan: Quilts and Quilting in Turkey.” Quilts and Beyond, Symposium, Old Deerfield Village Museum, Deerfield MA, September 2003.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Islamic influences in Western Dress during the Ottoman era.”            Symposium on Costume in Ottoman History. Bosphorous University, Istanbul, Turkey.      October, 2000.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Turkey Red: Madder Dyeing in Turkey” American Handweaving Museum, Clayton, NY, September, 1997.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Turkey Red, Turkish Style” Costume Society Region II Conference, Alfred, NY, October 1996.

Jirousek, Charlotte. “Regional Differences in Wedding Dress.” DeWitt Historical Society of Tompkins County. September, 1996.

Jirousek, Charlotte. Dress and Social Policy: Change in Turkish Rural Women’s Dress. Gender and Global Change Colloquium, Cornell University, February, 1995.

Jirousek, Charlotte. The Art and Science of Color: Color Terminology and “The Culture/Psychology of Color. (Two presentations) Cornell Cooperative Extension Inservice, March 24-25, 1994.

Grants Obtained

2004-2007-Issues of Social Responsibility in the Textile and Apparel Industry , USDA Innovation in Education grant (three year grant) , $89,999, Co-PI.

1998- Institute of Turkish Studies Summer Travel Grant (Plane fare; $800)

1997- Ankara University Research Grant.A proposal for field research on disappearing textile technologies in the Black Sea Region of Turkey. 1998-1999. Collaborative project with colleagues at Ankara University, Turkey. 350,000,000 Turkish Lira (approximately US $5,000) Co-Principal Investigator with Ankara faculty.

1996- American Research Institute in Turkey Grant: Survivals of Traditional Textile Technologies in Turkey. to support summer travel and research in Turkey May – July, 1996. $3,000. Principal investigator.

1995-   College of Human Ecology Innovative Educational Development grant: Development of an interactive textbook on the World Wide Web for TXA 125 Art, Design and Visual Thinking. September 1995- December 1996. $6,977. Independent project.

1995-   College of Human Ecology, International Travel Award, to present paper at Ars Textrina Conference in Leeds, England, July 1995. $1,000.

1993/94 – College of Human Ecology, College Grant: Islamic Influences in Western Dress. $6,700. Extended to December, 1995. Principal investigator.

1993 – College of Human Ecology International Travel Award, Archival Research in London. $1000. Research in Archives and Museums.

TEACHING AND ADVISING

Graduate Student Advisees in The Dept. of Fiber Science and Apparel Design:

Kang, Eun Jung, Second year PhD student. Kant and fashion theory

Kang, Jinyoung. First year PhD student Fashion and art.

Steiner, Rebecca. First year MA student, Irish crochet lace in l. 19th c. dress.

Roman, Mario. MA thesis Dress Choices of South Asian Women in America.

Davis, Elizabeth. Lace and the Democratization of Dress (MA, 2007, CSA Stella Blum Research Award winner, 2006) MA; continuing PhD, 17th Century Dress prints.

Angela Claire James. Sustainability in Apparel Design through use of Recycled Clothing

Berman, Kimberly. Issues of Sustainability inTurkish Carpet Weaving. 2006, MA.

Ning, Fangjun. Costume in the U.S.-China Trade 1790-1840. 2006, MA.

Kim, Heejung. A Study of Apparel Design Process: Integrating Korean Aesthetics for American Consumers. 2003, M.A.

Singer, Daphne Poppy. Engaging Learning: Experiments in Sharing Power with Students  in a Hands-on Design Lab 2002, M.A.

Young, Carol. Undesigned: A Study Using Post-consumer Recycled Clothing and Materials in the Apparel Design Process. 2001, M.A.

Sherwin, Sara Kate. The Tent of Meeting: An Exploration of how Symbolism can Enhance Surface and Structural Design. 1998, M.A.

Faerber, Erin. An Analysis of Costume Collection Accessibilty on the Internet. 1997, M.A.

McMullen, Yulando. Alternative Flat Patterning in Garment Construction Based on Architectural Paper Techniques. 1996, M.P.A.

Greene, Susan Weise Printed Dress Fabrics 1800-1860. 1994, M.A.

Graduate Committee membership outside of the Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design:

Robinson, Elizabeth. Ph. D. Committee member, Department of Art History, Cornell

University. A Study of Textile-related Art. dissertation in progress, PhD. 2007.

Ozbek,Nadir. Committee member, Department of History The politics of welfare:            

   Philanthropy, voluntarism and legitimacy in the Ottoman Empire, 1876—1914.             

Binghamton State University, NY. 2001, Ph.D.

Honors theses mentored
Alana Staiti (FSAD), Fashioning the Tourist: An Andean Traveler’s Wardrobe:

A Study in Curatorial Practice, 2006

Matthew Keagle (University Scholar) Men’s Winter Coats of the Eighteenth century, 2005

Emily Clark (University Scholar) Women Wearing Hats: A Collection of Modern Millinery Designs, 2005

COSTUME COLLECTION

Exhibitions

All of Them Ladies of Taste and Refinement: How Lace Democratized Fashion in Late Victorian Women’s Dress: 1870 – 1890. May 20, 2007-January 31 2008. (With Elizabeth Davis, graduate student curator) Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Street Fashion and Youth Subcultures. November 8 2006 to May 15, 2007. (with Denise Green, student curator)

Gatsby’s Closet: Dress and Identity in the Great Gatsby. July 2006 to November 1, 2006. Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR. Special exhibition for the Cornell Freshman Book Project.

Fashioning the Tourist: Reinterpretation of Andean Textiles and Dress. November 2005-June 2006. (with Alana Staiti, Honors student in museum studies and the ethnography of dress) Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Military Uniforms in the Cornell Costume and Textile Collection. May-October 2005. (with Matthew Keagle, Honors student in historic dress).

Dress Across Time and Space. May 6- August 18, 2005. TXA 675 Aesthetics and Meaning in World Dress, 317 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall.

Inside Out: The Cut of Clothes September 2003-February 2004 (with Susan Ashdown) Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Quilts and Coverlets in the Cornell Costume and Textile Collection May- September 2003 Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

The Langdon Collection February –May 2003 (with Susan Greene) Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Color! September 2002-February 2003. Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Crossing Time and Culture: Perspectives on World Dress. May 5-August 20, 2003. TXA 675 Aesthetics and Meaning in World Dress, 317 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall.

What Comes around Goes Around: The Recycling of Fashion March – September 2002. Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

The Devil is in the Details: Couture, September,2001-February 2002. Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Little Threads: Childrens Dress in the Cornell Costume and Textile Collection, March 31- August 15, 2001 (research for this exhibition conducted in collaboration with Dr. Joan Brumberg’s class HD241 History of Childhood.) Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, MVR.

Common Threads: Art, Identity and Dress in the Twentieth Century Johnson Museum March 13-June 17, 2001.

Selections from the Brown Collection Elizabeth Schmeck Brown Gallery, Martha Van Rensselaer Hall. Sept 2000 to March 2001.

Buttoned up: Coats in the Cornell Costume and textile Collection. November 1999 to August 2000. Costume and Textile Collection Gallery, third floor MarthaVan Rensselaer Hall.

Ancestry and Invention: Connecting Identity with Style and Tradition. May 5 to August 24, 1998. TXA 675 Aesthetics and Meaning in World Dress. 317 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall.

Textile Treasures in the Cornell Costume and Textile Collection. February 1998 to October 1999. Costume and Textile Collection Gallery, third floor MarthaVan Rensselaer Hall.

Finding the cloth for the clothes: Traditional Turkish textiles and their technologies November 1- December 10, 1997. Costume and Textile Collection Gallery, third floor MarthaVan Rensselaer Hall.

The Remey Collection September 1- October 30, 1997. The inaugural exhibition for the new Costume and Textile Collection Gallery, third floor MarthaVan Rensselaer Hall.

A Dialogue Across Time: Evolution and Change in Dress May 7-August 23, 1996. TXA 675 Aesthetics and Meaning in World Dress. 317 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall.

Kalaga: Textile Art of Burma (Myanmar) January 6- February 9, 1995. Martha Van Rensselaer first floor Gallery.

Cross Dressing: Exchange of Clothing Styles Across Cultures May 9-August 20, 1994. TXA 635 Aesthetics of World Dress. 317 Martha Van Rensselaer Hall.

Textiles of the Andes.October 20-April 9, 1993.First Floor Gallery, Martha Van Rensselaer Hall.

Silk Painting by Mohamed Najib Dawa, March 30-April 9, 1993.Held in conjunction with TXA 375, Color and Surface Design in Textiles.

CITIZENSHIP

Professional service activities

Costume Society of America:

Richard C. Martin Exhibition Award Committee Member, 2009

Committee Chair, Awards and Fellows Nominations, Costume Society of America 2002-2005

Elected to the CSA Scholars Roundtable, 2002

Reviewer, Dress 1996-2009

Textile Society of America:

Web site manager, 1998 to 2003;

Proceedings editor, Biennial Symposium 2000-2001.

Board member, Regional representative 2000-2002.

International Textile and Apparel Association:

Reviewer, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal 2004, 2007

Annual Meeting Design Competition: Curator of Design Exhibition. Goldstein      Gallery, University of Minnesota, October 11-21, 1994.

Berg Publications

Reviewer, book proposal 2009

Textile History (Pasold Foundation, Journal)

Reviewer 2009

Cornell Professional service activities

University Boards and Committees

Johnson Museum Faculty Advisory Committee, 1996-present

Library Faculty Advisory Committee, 2003-2006

Cornell Council for the Arts, 1992-2005

College of Human Ecology

Educational Policy Committee, 2009-present

Human Ecology Diversity Committee, 2005-present

Chair, Diversity Art Competition and exhibition, 2009

Ad-Hoc Undergraduate Curriculum Committee, 2005-2006

University Advisory Committee for Cornell Abroad, 1994-1996

Human Ecology International Education Committee, 1994-1995

Educational Policies Committee, College of Human Ecology 1994-1997; Chair Spring 1996

Department of Fiber Science and Apparel Design

Director of Undergraduate Studies, 2009 to present

Director of Graduate Studies, 2007 to 2009

New York City study trip for FSAD Students, Co-Coordinator, 2004-2007.

FSAD Graduate Admissions Committee, 1998-2007

Adviser, Cornell Design League, 1996-1997

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